Quote from: VenomStallone on December 10, 2014, 12:24:38 am

Ill spare myself a lot of time and explanation.

This tek WAS a good thing going. But Where im at now, it just took a shit. NOT WORKING! Produces product that has strange effects not noted before. Reaction not going chocolate milkshake color and staying. Instead it goes thick brown for a sec, then thick black/grey, almost like a clock reaction. Instead of clearing near the end, it goes cloudy with a tint of red/grey, and the noted "grey/white" layer that used to form on top of the nh3/naoh layer (which signaled true completion of bang as product) never forms. Product comes out fine, just isn't the same AT ALL. Its got a "tampered" with feel to it.

It may not be happened to anyone else yet, and if that  is the case, be prepared for a shit storm coming, because ITS HAPPENING HERE!

Calling all bees, some serious discussion needs to occur, NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS BEING PRODUCED AND WHY!

May Bee the beginning to a very evil Death By Gak twist. Lets get this shit figured out.

Noticed this for sure. It's got a strange feel like you mentioned and also the "shadow people" always seem to come for an early visit. It seems to cause some crazy hallucinations of things moving around a lot too. I was thinking it was too much lithium, but maybe not since I am not the only one.

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Also seems to work out a bit differently with different brands. Seen some bomb ass stuff then next time crazy fucking hallucinations with it and weird feelings and so on and so forth

What method are you using for your extraction, H2O or HCl (g)?

2. How much Lithium are you using? More specific what are all your ratios? PSE/E, AN, NaOH, Li, NP and size of rv

naptha, lye, and muriatic acid are much worse when they're mixed together under huge amounts of pressure. What makes real synths so much better is that the reactions are spread out and more easily controlled with the added benefit of not having it explode in your face.

This Information on the Birch is not accurate in this thread. Both Birch and the modified Birch (s&b), are fully legit reactions.  When performed by a qualified person, they are fairly safe, produce both high yields and high quality and is LESS likely to "explode".  Also Remember, d-MA is d-MA after the work up.

1. Muriatic is not part of the Birch or modified-Birch. Some may use it as a HCl sourch when salting out the finished Amine.

2. Modified Birch does not produce "huge amounts of pressure. " It varies from 50-100 psi given typical rxns and is "self-limiting" meaning as pressure builds...the reaction slows.*

 Caution is still necessary,  but it is NOT what people/law/media make it out to be. (*50-100 grams each of anhydrous NaOH and Ammonia Nitrate in a non-polar soultion Is: a. Not a huge amount. b. Reactants are polar-soluble only, so if combined In non-polar fuel they remain solid and react relatively slow through surface contact)
       Smart people use thick plastic bottles designed to withstand about double that amount  such as home soda making bottles. Failures do happen...but they are quite unimpressive.  No explosions. Just dribbling out with small sprays and a cat piss smell.
     Bad explosions happen when people that take no time to understand whay they are doing, dump a few Ounces of water into the rv. Do not blame the Birch Reduction; blame stupid people.

3. Birch reaction (including a proper s&b) is actually fairly safe reaction, very easily controllable, and is a 100% legit reaction. In the world of Organic Chemistry NaOH, AN, Li and otc polar solvents are about as non-toxic as it gets. They are mild irritants. 

      HI from the rp/i or HI/P is way more toxic. Those reactions are WAY more temperamental with fires/explosions common. Toxic fumes get even worse with some procedures making HI or Methylamine.

4. Yields for Birch are both potentially higher and more consistent.  Though Modified Birch is severely limited in terms of size.

Is there any way to tell if the end result of this is going to be alright? Is it going to be a bad thing if it is too acidic? (As in hurt/kill you)
If it is too acidic is that going to cause damage? These are things that should be addressed IMO

All that is covered under the first two rules of doing something like this. They read: "learn the basics of Chemistry" and "understand the rxn before performing it".

That said, the "acid" you refer to is "possible residual HCl" remaining from Salting out the MA.

So how much HCl could be leftover?

Lets look at the water pull method even though it should NOT be used. (Want to know why? Research it. Answers are out there. No spoon feeding)

-With a medicine dropper diluted muriatic acid is added to a highly basic solution.
-The HCl begins at first to Neutralize the solution.
-As the pH drops below 10.5, the polar dissolved MA begins to take on HCl molecules and Methamphetamine Hydrochloride is formed. It is immediately "dropped" into the polar layer and dissolves
-this is done until the pH of the water is ~7.

So....
-If the pH of the water is ~7
-all the MA is dissolved in said water

Chemistry tells us available HCl would at worst be in the ppBillion. With sloppiness and poor technique at wost ppMillion.
That is before the First Acetone wash.

Besides... your shit would be yellow-greenish and smell Horrid long before becoming dangerous due to HCl. Remember Pool water is in the ppmillion and begins to take on a strong smell at around 5 ppm.

Quote from: Daran on September 21, 2014, 04:28:36 am

There's probably some other confounding factors at play here. I've combined amp and propylhexedrine together even and didn't feel any sort of residual cognitive deficit although the drug itself feels "dirty" to me if that means anything.

i have been thinking that i am bipolar and that doing uppers causes me to go into a hypomania (the next few days i feel fucking great after the drug's worn off) that then goes into a depression which makes me stupid

Most typical Amphetamines have a fairly long half-life, so you are experiencing normal results of light-moderate to moderate usage. Afterglow/normal for 2-3 days then below baseline Dopamine along with Serotonin & NE levels. Below baseline Dopamine/NE decreases Cognative abilities.  The lower it gets the more depressed you get and cloudier your head gets.

A real rough estimate is multiply the half-life by 6 to get the "afterglow" and/or "normal" and/or "withdrawal" delay. Thus we typically begin most Opiate withdrawal roughly about 24 hours because typical used Opiates have 4-6 hour half-lives. Methamphetamine has an approx 9-12 hour HL so we get 2.5-3 days roughly. Now look at Cocaine's HL of under an hour and it becomes more apparent why the crash and "fiending" can be so intense within a few hours.

Comedown and physical/mental "withdrawl" are a function of many factors such as: length of time on substance, dosage schedual, rate at which you increase dosage to adjust for tolerance, sleep schedual,  roi, nutrition, and so on... the first four are major determinants especially for the Amphetamine class. The more you "shock" your Neurotransmitters the worse the depression. More you tweek and don't sleep the more intense the exhaustion. Cause and effect.

So a light user who keeps a decent sleep schedual will usually "feel" an afterglow for 2-3 days and function fine, then experience a week or so of Fatigue and mild depression. A light-moderate to moderate user may feel a mild afterglow
With some degree of fatigue for the 3 or so days after then likely significant fatigue with stronger depression.

Whenever doing a s&b never use water to kick off the reaction. With the proper weight ratios of ingredients it will kick off. If the reaction does not you can depending on vessel apply heat to kick it off by A. Placing in microwave for seconds and this will get that bitch bumping. There has been some really neat shit into using nukes to drive reactions and also greatly reducing the amount of time. Yeah just never ever use water it's the start to a bad ending on so many levels

I hear a cloth-type heating pad works very well. Heats it up evenly and won't get too hot.

If you absolutly must use water, use no more than 5ml. Any more you Li will likely ignight. I have seen teks calling for up to 1/4 cups of water. Serious. Best case with adding more than a few ml of water is you will only burn up a large portion of the precious Lithium.

The  real intent of the water is to facilitate the reaction of the  Sodium Hydroxide with the Ammonia Nitrate. One may do this by introduction of a trivial amount of humidity to one or either of these. Too much moisture is  if the reactants clump or are visually melty.

Be sure the lithium is properly saturated with phenylacetone before adding your sublimated idodine so the anhydrous ammonia can properly base the red phosphorus during the recrystalization. I recommend a dual extraction utilizing a silmultanoius gas and water pull.

Never clean your pseudo. For this reaction never crush the pills either. Best method is to leave them in the blister pack and if you want the best crystals use unopened 4 boxes of factory sealed Sudafed PE

All you really need is Electrical Tape. Place that shit over her nipples and some around the neck as a hot choker. Tape up wrists for light bondage...other places for medium bondage. Oppenheimer can tape his own junk up his arse!

Tetra Twist Extraction
 
Courtesy of Di's Rp/I:

The Tetra-Twist:

Best extraction method for 120s and 240s Tetra-Twist(NOTE: This is what my collegues consider the BEST method for 120mg and 240mg pseudoephedrine pills. Even more preferred than the STB3. However neither is a Universal Cure. Some pills work better with the STB3, some work better with the Tetra-Twist. The tetra twist requires Tetra, which is hard for some countries to get. So they would probably pick the STB3, but if u live in a place where u can get Tetra and u have some 120s or 240s or a pill that u think could work with this method its worth a shot.)This method is very good, yall better thank me for this one!

Equipment:
Hotplate
Coffee Grinder
1 Pyrex or Visonware bowl
Pyrex Evaporation dish
5ml Medicine Dropper or similar
Funnel
Flask or Beaker big enough to hold contents 
Cotton Balls
Coffee Filters
Reagents:
Tetrachloroethylene (TCE, Tetra) - Brake Parts Cleaner
VM&P Naphtha
Acetone
Sodium Carbonate
Distilled Water
Muriatic Acid

Extraction:
Grind pills in coffee grinder
add twice amounts of Sodium Carbonate and grind again. Then transfer to the flask. 
Add TCE with spray tube down the side until its a paste, not runny though.
Add Naphtha about 300-400ml
Add 5mL of Distilled water.
Bring to light boil for an hour.
Decant off the Naphtha then add half as much Naphtha then bring to a light boil for a half an hour, decant off Naphtha and add to first Naphtha pull. 
With the Naphtha in a bottle (filter if any solids are in it!), add 100ml of distilled water and shake, and discard the water wash. Keep the Naphtha.Discard water layer. 
Add 5mL of Muriatic acid and 50mL Distilled Water to the Naphtha, shake hard for a few minutes, Drain out bottom water layer and put on hotplate to evaporate.
Repeat with another 5ml Muriatic acid/50ml distilled water and add this to the first water pull.
Put these both on hotplate to evaporate. Use ceramic hotplate and avoid coils!!!evap till get crystals....cover crystals with acetone to loosen while preparing a jar, funnel, and coffee filter.swirl loosened crystals gold pan style
..pour loose crystals/acetone to coffee filter. let the beautiful Pseudoephedrine Hydrochloride dry. Weigh. Store