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Better Living Through Chemistry / Re: An old reply
« on: July 22, 2014, 08:35:57 pm »
Thanks bro much appreciated
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in one of the old post a member commented on a post, it was a full way using red and iodine, with only using 1 or 2 boxes. it also had a way to make I crystals and get the red from matchbooks. if anyone has the info please post here. thanksTry WD's, Zonez's or Rkill's site.
That's the oneThere was another rxn tek in that thread later on that li said that he currently uses and it's a fair bit different.
Would you like me to share it here? I don't want to hijack your thread.
Endo
LI's COLD COOK
Recommended Materials/Tools:
~ These are the tools/materials that I currently use... If you want to know if something else can be used as a substitution, please review the last 60 pages b/c its already been covered you lazy fuck... and FUCK YOU... I'm only listing US measurements outta spite at this point... Google your own fuckin conversions
- 1 box 24-hour Sudafed (2.4g Psuedoeffedrine)
- 1/4 cup Lye (Sodium Hydroxide –NaOH)
- 1/8 cup Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3– AN)
- About 100ml of Dyethel Ether (starting fluid)
- About 200ml of Hexane (CRC QD Electronics Cleaner)
- A Gallon of Distilled Water
- 1 "AA" Energizer Advanced Lithium battery
- 2 Pairs of Plyers
- 1/4 Cup Measuring Cup
- 1 Bag of Ice
- Pail/Container
- Box of Ziplock Baggies
- 1 500ml SodaStream Bottle
- 1 Roll of Gorilla Duct Tape
- Muriatic Acid mixed... [4 Parts Water : 1 Part Water] after being purchased
- Can of Acetone
- Blowdryer
- Small Pipe Cutter for Batteries
- 4 Coffee Filters
- Paper towels
- A Mason Jar
- A Pill Crusher
- A Plastic Funnel
- An Evaporation Plate
- Some Salt
- A Bottle of isopropanol alcohol
Basic Procedure Outline:
1) Heat the Bottom of the Soda Stream bottle with a blowdryer until the glue holding the bottom part to the bottle heats up and you are able to twist the bottom part off of the bottle.
2) Gorilla Tape The Bottom of the Bottle, an about an inch up the side of the bottle, and the seams going down the bottle.
3) Add about 100ml of Ether and 200ml of hexane to a baggie
4) Water Wash this Fuel Mix twice, and the transfer the fuel to the Soda Stream Bottle.
5) Fill the Pail/Container with Ice about 1/2 way and add a about 3-4 inches of water.
* The colder the better. I use an "ICEE MAKER" to shave the ice into snow like powder and put it into an Ice Tea pitcher about 3/4 full... then I add a couple of inches of water to make a "SLUSH BATH".
6) Put the SS Bottle with the Fuel into the ice-water bath, and leave it to allow fuel to get cold (I typically put SS Bottle with Fuel in the Freezer about an hour or so before cook).
7) When fuel is nice an cold, remove bottle from ice water, but keep it accessible.
Crush and Powder the PSE Pills and put the powder away for later.
Remove guts from battery and leave them submerged in some fuel.
Add 1/8 Cup AN to the SS Bottle
9) Add 1/4 Cup LYE to the SS Bottle
10) Tear the Li Strip in "stamp" size flat pieces or smaller and add them to Bottle
11) Add about 5ml distilled water to SS Bottle, quickly screw the cap on, and swirl the bottle to "re-coat" the Li with fuel.
* Cold = Ammonia Gas Condenses to Ammonia Liquid at lower pressures... AN + LYE still react even in the cold temp because of the addition of water...
Therefore, easy to create Ammonia Liquid and start the bronzing quickly
12) While the reaction is "Rolling" violently for the first 5-10 minutes, let the pressure in the bottle build until you cannot depress with the "thumb test", but perform SMALL vents as needed.
13) Depending on the type of Fuel, temp, strength of reaction, pressure, etc... you could see initial bronzing within the first 2-3 minutes.
14) When the reaction Starts to slow, let pressure build to your "thumb Pressure Test" capacity, and then submerge the bottle in the Ice Water Bath and Leave it for about 10-15 minutes or so.
* Keep watch of the pressure to be safe... If your ice bath is not cold enough to quickly slow the reaction, be sure to vent bottle as needed to prevent bottle failure.
15) After 15 minutes, you will probably have at least 1/2 of the Li Bronzed (Dark Bronze Flakes at this point), and the bottle will be depressurized considerably, and little to no reaction will be happening.
16) Shake the shit outta the bottle
* If you AN/LYE Reactants have become big hard clumps at the bottom... Shake the fuck outta the bottle until you break them mostly up... Either way, the reactants will "de-clump" later when we heat and shake...
17) Begin heating the fuck outta the bottle with blowdryer and shaking the hell outta it, to "re-initiate" reaction.
18) Perform small vents as needed while raising temp to get the reaction rolling again.
*As the fuel gets hot, you will see the Li Bronze flakes convert to Gold BB's and/or a Gold puddle... Pretty
19) Once Fuel is Hot and reaction is rolling strong again... Build pressure to limit and submerge into Ice bath one more time for another 10-15 minutes.
* After removing from Ice Bath again, You should have 80%-100% Li Dissolved.
20) Remove Bottle Cap, add PSE, and Add some recharge Reactants if you like.
* I always add about 1/16 cup AN and 1/8 cup of LYE with the PSE.
* I was adding PSE at the beginning for a while...got very good dope, but not great... Never got that head change when slamming it... Added PSE later on next cook...BAM... BANG ASS DOPE... Trust me, it makes a difference.
21) Shake the shit outta the bottle and you should have BLACK fuel INSTANTLY
22) Begin heating the Fuel and shaking the shit outta the bottle... Keep the fuel as hot as possible and maintain pressure as high as possible...
* From my experience, I'm still a 100% believer that temp and pressure during the reduction phase is essential to quality of product.
23) Continue Heating and Shaking (small vents as needed) until the fuel goes completely clear within about 15-20 seconds after shaking it, or until you have absolutely no LI/Bronze let at all (Meaning that your Li losses were too great and you did not have enough to reduce ALL the PSE)...
* Don't get in a hurry here... Sometimes this reduction phase can take 30-40 minutes... All GREAT things come to those who wait.
24) Filter fuel into Mason Jar
* Epsom??? IDK... I've been using 4 filters with a layer of table salt in the middle, and a paper towel plug in the neck of the filter.
25) IMPORTANT - Water wash the shit outta the fuel
* I do 3-4 very good washes of the fuel until the fuel barely clouds the water anymore... Has made an amazing difference.
26) Save about 25ml of fuel in a separate container to use as "Bring-Back" fuel while titrating.
27) Add about 15ml of distilled water to the clean fuel.
28) Add Muriatic/water mix SLOWLY (1-3 drops at a time) and shake until you see the fuel go cloudy and the layers have difficulty separating (indicating the solution has become acidic).
29) Add the "Bring-Back" fuel to raise the PH bac to neutral or slightly above.
30) Separate, drain & Collect Water, and Evaporate... When water/Meff mix thickens, I pour a good splash of Acetone on the plate and continue evap to crash out the crystals...
Shit's the Fucking Bomb, Bang Ass Dope... Safer with the temperature controlled pressure. Bronzes So much faster. Makes the best dope that I ever made or slammed, hand's down...
Gotta run Y'all.