The Sanctuary

Carnality => Better Living Through Chemistry => Topic started by: Meff_Head on June 15, 2014, 06:36:32 pm

Title: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: Meff_Head on June 15, 2014, 06:36:32 pm
The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up reading this thread… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, as they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined, and a Real Time Participatory story that anyone can add to.
    I know that these “Shake n Bake” (SnB) threads are getting CRAZY redundant, especially with complete fucking retards like Zac starting a new thread to simply restate the same misinformation in an even LESS organized manner (Writing similar to a 6 year old retarded chimp…”lol”… fagot). So, why am I starting yet another thread?
    • To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE will be able to follow the procedure with successful results… Including those of you who failed in the past as well as those of you waiting to take that first step. (Assuming you use the chemicals that I list and follow the steps).
    • To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked properly, this shit will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique (TEK) (This means you Glenns & Diacetyl)…
    o Gets you twacked for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance – YES
    o Can be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, booty bumped (anally administered) – YES
    o Can be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe, and cracks back (dries back from oil into a crystalline state) –YES… ~Even with a water pull Beans ~
    o Can be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards – YES
    o Can produce around a 90% yield with extreme purity - YES
    § Remember, d-meth (The most desired isotope ofmeth which is produced by SnB TEK) is d-meth regardless of how you get the precursors [The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, I gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other TEK… It’s the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by TEK.
    • If you are not familiar with these TEK’s… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.
    • BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both TEK’s are the same purity level.

    • Finally, because I want ALL of you, and your friends… AS MANY PEOPLE AS POSSIBLE… to cook meth… Why? So that the law enforcement agencies are so outnumbered by meth labs that it greatly reduces the chance that I will get caught and locked up… SAFETY IN NUMBERS BITCHES! I only bake for me and my wife, so I am not competing with YOU for customers…COOK, SELL, GET HIGH, GET RICH!!! I DON’T GIVE A FUCK, JUST COOK!!!
    o If I can make this shit detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable shit right out of the gate, and you see how EASY and RELATIVELY SAFE it really is when it is properly explained, there will be many more PSE purchases every month and many more labs on the street, thus decreasing the chance that they will have the time or the resources to specifically worry about me.
    o When you see how easy this is, and what it makes, you will end up teaching friends, and as word spreads, my odds of avoiding trouble continue to increase.
    Look, here’s the deal… I have only been doing this for about 6 months or so now (I’d say about 50 cooks or so). Prior to that, I have second hand experience with Birch and RP/I. But, I have 20 years of abusing meth, so Iam a pretty qualified critic, I am a smart guy with an engineering degree although I am a business owner now. I have researched this TEK pretty well over the last 6 months, and I have a decent amount of hands on experience with surprising success…At least it surprised the fuck out of me to make fire Dope with SnB.
    Most of the information that you find in this thread is already posted in the original thread, and I am simply plagiarizing it from multiple sources.

    Here’s what this Thread will do for you:
    ~ Provide a source of information based on experience rather than theory or chemistry
    ~ Provide an outlet where cats like you will hopefully continue to freely share correct, honest, and helpful information learned through experience... In other words, please give back...
    • Weed out all of the stupid misinformation previously posted by shithead losers.
    • Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about anyone can follow and produce great meth.
    • Painfully focus on the details of EVERYTHING in hopes that many of you will finally feel comfortable enough to give this a try or try it again by alleviating the fear of the unknown.
    • Provide accurate information based most heavily on my successful experience integrated with accurate information from previous threads and my research.

    Here’s what this thread will NOT do for you:
    • Provide much related to the scientific background and reasoning for the steps of the TEK… I do not understand chemistry enough to do much of that (talk to smiles…she’s smart), and you will not need to understand much of the chemistry after reading this TEK… JUST BUY THE CORRECT INGREDIANTS AND FOLLOW THE FUCKING STEPS!
    • Give a bunch of alternatives… You can all hash out the "Coleman’s or Naphtha, Smartwater or Sodastream, Can I use Kerosene & brown ice pack crystals & Draino?" on your own………
    Lastly, before we get started… Although there are so many variations to the TEK (I will mention a few that I have tried along the way), trust me when I tell you that this TEK works. It may or may not be the best in every way… There may be others out there producing shit better than mine, but I simply don’t give a flying fuck… It produces the BEST METH that I have ever slammed or smoked in my life and me and my wife are extremely satisfied.
    OK… Here we go!
    Recommended Materials/Tools:
    ~ The tools that I use can obviously be substituted for others… Ex: You do not need baby food jars if you have a better or more convenient container for your acetone/Epsom and Isopropanol/Epsom mixtures when you put them in the freezer if you want to recrystallize, but I highly encourage you to use the chemicals that I list, or something equalor better in quality
    • 1 Box of 12-Hour or 24-Hour (2.4 gramsPseudoephedrine)o Can be Sudafed or any of the generics
    o Depending on the store and type, costs about $6 - $12
    • 1/2 – 3/4 cup Lye (Sodium Hydroxide – NaOH)
    o I use Roebic Laboratories Crystal Drain Opener from Lowe’s
    o Ace Hardware also has smaller containers of 100% Lye that are about $7
    o Costs about $16 with tax for a 2lb container
    • 1/4 – 3/8 cup Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3– AN)
    o I use the crystals from the inside of instant Ice compresses from The Dollar General
    § Most Instant Ice Compresses now are made with UREA… You need to get the AN.
    o Costs $1.50 for each Ice Compress
    o You will use about 1 per 2 cooks or so
    • 1/2 a bottle of Coleman’s Premium Camping Fuel
o Red bottle at Walmart
    o Costs around $6
    o Look, I know this is going to hurt a bunch of vaginas out there so here’s the deal…
    § I used VM&P Naphtha for a while, but it’s a pain in the ass keeping that shit warm enough…especially through a thick ass Sodastream bottle
    § I also used Diethyl Ether for a bit, and it worked fine, I just got tired of having to empty the cans and doing the water wash with the shit.
    § I LIKE COLEMAN’S!!! If you don’t like that, guess you’ll probably live…
    ~Toluene, Xylene, Hexane, etc.
    • 1 Sodastream Plastic Bottle (500ml)
    o I buy a pack of 2 bottles at Walmart
    o Costs about $14
    o I reuse them a few times, although many others recommend against doing this, but I’m cheap and I haven’t had any problems.
    • 2 Energizer Advanced Lithium AA Bateries
    o I buy the 4 packs from Walmart
    o Costs about $6 for the 4-pack
    o Energizer Ultimate works as well but they are more expensive and the case is harder to cut through
    • A couple bottles of bottled water
    • Usually Around 30-50 drops of Muriatic Acid Solution 20% Muriatic to 80% Water (also called hydrochloric acid –HCl)
    o I buy at Lowes
    o 1 Gallon Jug
    o Costs about $8
    • Some Acetone
    o I buy at Lowes
o I believe it’s around a quart, in a metal container, and it costs around $7
    • A pair of PVC Pipe Cutters
    o I got mine at Lowes
    o Cost around $10 or so
    o Will be using these to cut the casing off of the batteries
    • A couple pairs of plyers
    o One of these will be used to hold the battery while cutting the casing, and the other will be used to pull the “guts” out of the battery
    • A bunch of coffee filters
    • A couple of cotton balls
    • A blow-dryer
    • A grocery bags to use as a trash bag
    • A few 1 Quart ziplock baggies (I like the ones with the slide seals)
    • 2 Eye Droppers
    • Something to test PH
    o I use Phenyl Red Drops from a regular pool PH Test Kit (Gheto, but it works)
    • A mason Jar
    • A sewing needle
    • A plate to use as an evaporation plate
    • A Plastic Funnel
    • A blender
    • 1/4 Cup measuring cup
    • Any safety gear that makes you feel more secure (Kitty Litter, gloves, face mask, whatever)o I do recommend something to breathe through so that you do not inhale a bunch of Ammonia…That shit is nasty.
    o Honestly,I usually cook in the car or in my bedroom in boxers, but I know shit can go wrong, and that’s just stupid… Please, safety first.
I know that it looks/sounds like a lot of shit, but don’t get discouraged… It will probably cost around $100-$150 for your first cook and around $20-$30 for each cook after that… You will likely yield between 1.5 – 2 grams of high quality meth that you can cut at least 25% if selling and still keep a very marketable product at $100 a gram, so you will have about $185 -$250 street value worth of product for each cook… Li(NH3)4 thinks this is apretty good Return on Investment, but Li(NH3)4 doesn’t care because he likes to abuse all of the product from ever cook with his wife
    OK… Now we are going to do an outline or “RECIPIE”of the actual procedure. I am doing it this way so that you can just follow a step by step process that’s not "too" wordy… Just make sure you understand what you are doing before you start… Trust me, this process is FUCKING EASY with VERY LITTLE DANGER “IF” you understand what you are doing… The only REAL DANGER is all the Damn Over-Zealous Hillbilly Geniuses that believe reading is for the city folk. Please don’t add to the ridiculously amplified misconception that this is a super dangerous procedure that will blow our innocent neighbors up… It’s bad publicity!
    Basic Procedure Outline:
    1. Place a layer of Epsom salt into a cookie sheet and bake in the oven at 400 degrees for about an hour or 2
    2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of the dry salt into each of the baby food jars
    3. Add acetone to one jar and isopropanol alcohol to the other jar, each about 3/4 full and place them both in the freezer
    4. Make sure your Sodawater bottle is completely clean and COMPLETELY dry
    5. Prepare an area to work, clean the area up, and have all the materials and tools easily accessible and organized in the work area
    6. Put your PSE pills into the blender, blend them until they are a fine powder, and put the powder into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid
    7. Measure out 1/2 cup of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid
    8. Measure out 1/4 cup of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid
    9. Cut open the Instant Ice compress package, throw away the bag of water inside, measure out 1/4 cup of the AN crystals and put them into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid
    10. Measure out 1/8 cup of the AN crystals (1/2 of the 1/4 cup measuring cup) and put them into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid
    11. Pour about 1/4 of the bottle of Coleman’s fuel into a plastic Ziploc bag and keep bag handy for next step
    12. Remove Lithium Strips from 2 AA Batteries:
    a. Hold one end of a battery tightly with a pair of plyers
    b. Use PVC Pipe cutters with the other hand to cut through the battery casing
    i. Try to prevent cutting past the casing and into the “guts” of the battery as well as you can
    ii. Pinghat (I like him), suggested using a steak knife to saw through the casing without digging into the guts, then pulling casing apart…Probably a much easier way to attempt this, and I’m gonna give that shit a go next time
    c. Once the casing is cut all the way around the battery, set the cutter down and use the other pair of plyers to:
    i. Tightly hold the second end of the battery
    ii. Bend the battery back and forth with the plyers in each of your hands to ensure the casing is cut all the way through
    iii. While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart, and one side of the casing will come off exposing the “guts” of the battery
    iv. Discard the 1/2 battery casing that was removed and use the now free plyers to clamp on the exposed battery guts while still holding the casing with the other pair of plyers… now pull apart again and the “guts” will come free of the casing
    v. Place the “guts” directly into the fuel in the Ziploc baggie, and keep them submerged in the fuel as much as possible
    d. Repeat this process with the second battery
    e. Remove the excess air from the Ziploc baggie and seal it
    13. Add the 1/4 cup Tupperware container of AN to the RV using the funnel
    14. Add the 1/2 cup Tupperware container of Lye to the RV using the funnel
    15. Add the 2nd 1/4th of the bottle of Coleman’s fuel to the RV using the funnel
    16. Remove the Lithium strips from the Battery Guts:
    a. Open the Ziploc baggie containing the fuel and the battery guts
    b. Put your clean hands into the fuel and unroll the 1st roll of battery guts while keeping them submerged the entire time
    c. Locate the strip of Lithium (this will be the dull gray looking strip, not the blackand shiny silver strip)
    d. Remove the Li strip while still submerged in the fuel, and discard the rest of the battery “guts” into a grocery bag (be sure to also remove and throw away the shiny folded piece of metal that will be attached to the strip of Li at one end or the other)
    e. Repeatthe process for the 2nd roll of “guts”
    f. Now rip off a piece of Li maybe 3 inches long, and begin tearing it into small pieces that can fit through the funnel and into the RV (Doesn’t matter if they are flat, or balled up, or folded, just keep them relatively small)
    g. Repeat this process until all of the Li is in the RV
    17. Pour the fuel from the Ziploc bag into the RV using the funnel
    18. Remove the funnel and screw the lid onto the RV
    19. If the reaction is already building (Ammonia (NH3) bubbles emerging from the bottom layer of reactants and traveling to the top of the RV through the NP), by the time the cap is on…cool. If not, give the RV an easy swirl to get some of the reactants in the bottom to mix together and initiate reaction…
    20. Blow-dryer can be used at this point, and throughout the remainder of the cook to initiate/increase the reaction in the RV
    21. While holding RV with both hands, use your thumbs to “push In” on the center of the bottle to test internal pressure
    22. Try this push test all the around the bottle to find the spot that is easiest to push in, and make a mental note of where this spot is as it is the spot you will use for monitoring pressure throughout the cook
    23. Allow the reaction to continue while monitoring pressure until pressure builds high enough to warrant a pressure relief (Burp):
    a. These Sodastream bottles are beasts and can hold an incredible amount of internal pressure without failing, so don’t burp the RV until you are unable to push the bottle in whatsoever with the force of both of your thumbs pushing together
    b. The first burp will probably be needed about 2-5 minutes after the reaction starts really going but go by pressure, not by time
c. After a few burps during the first 10-15min of good reaction, once everything slows a bit, you really only need to burp the RV a couple of times more prior to adding your PSE



Title: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li Part 2 of 2
Post by: Meff_Head on June 15, 2014, 06:43:41 pm
24. When pressure reaches the threshold, burp the RV:
    a. Slowly loosen the cap on the RV just enough to let A VERY LITTLE bit of pressur eescape, and to get the reaction rolling strong again, and then close the cap
    b. There may be a whistling sound as the high pressure gasses are venting out of the RV…Good sign that you are letting the pressure build enough before venting
    c. You may even see NH3 gas shoot out of the cap like steam blowing out of the sides of an iron… Scary, but VERY good sign that you are building the kind of pressure that you want
    25. You should see little tiny Bronze beads start forming around the RV floating just on top of the NP mixed around with the Li within the first 10 minutes if everything is going well
    a. If the Bronze is not starting to appear within 10 – 15 minutes, it’s a pretty good indication that you are not allowing enough pressure to build in the RV, and you are either burping too early, too often, or both. No big deal... Just be observant and learn.
    26. Swirl the bottle and/or heat with blow-dryer as needed to keep the reaction continuing strong throughout this process
    27. Continue this process for probably about 25 – 45 minutes, (less burping and stronger ammonia reaction = quicker bronzing of Li = Less time… so Kinda hard to give you an accurate time frame here) until approximately 3/4 of the Li in the RV has been converted to Bronze
    a. The pink color in the fuel will dissipate over these initial 25-45min, and the clear fuel will get foggy as it becomes saturated with Li Bronze particles
    28. Slowly loosen the RV cap, vent all of the pressure, then remove the cap
    29. If the reaction is slowing down at this point, recharge the RV by adding the remaining 1/8 cup AN and then the remaining 1/4 cup of lye to the RV through the clean funnel. No more AN or Lye need to be added if the reaction is still going strong
    30. Add the PSE to the RV through the funnel slowly and then remove the funnel and screw cap back onto the RV
    31. Shake the fuck out of the bottle for about 10 seconds…
    32. Continue shaking the fuck out of the bottle as much as possible while continuing to regulate pressure with the blow-dryer and burping for the next 20-30 minutes
33. The PSE must be based before the reaction can take place between the PSE and the Li, so it will be a bit (maybe 10-15 min. before you see the fuel start really going dark like chocolate milk)
    a. It is REALLY important to keep the pressure in the RV high, and the temp of the fuel as warm as you can during this time as it aides the reaction taking place between the PSE and the Li
    b. You will start seeing the fuel go dark after shaking the fuck out of the RV, and then go back to clear after the bottle settles
    i. This color change will likely happen many times
    ii. Sometimes the fuel doesn’t really go nearly as dark as other times… it’s ok… just keep going…
    34. Once you get to the point where you are able to shake the fuck out of the bottle, then set it down… and the fuel settles and goes back to clear in about 30-45sec, your cook is complete.
    a. You will still have some Li floating on top of the fuel, but it should be a very small amount compared to the original amount, and the remaining pieces will be thin and significantly reacted into bronze
    b. If you still have a significant amount of Li, don’t worry about it… Under-reacted product is still pretty decent, and you’ll get better next time
    35. Slowly loosen the RV cap and vent all of the pressure
    36. Prepare the funnel with the 2 cotton balls stuffed tightly into the stem, about 7 coffee filters in the funnel, and about a 1/2 inch layer of the dry Epsom in one of the middle coffee filters
    37. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the RV into the Mason Jar.
    a. Don’t fill the funnel more than about 1/2 way full at any time to prevent Particulates from getting over, around, or through the filters.
    b. As you are draining the fuel from the RV into the funnel, some of the Li and the reactants will also be poured into the funnel… This is fine.
    c. As the last of the fuel is in the funnel, agitate the pile of reactants and Li with a small wooden or plastic spoon or something similar that is clean and made of either wood or plastic to get trapped meth to move on with the fuel through the filters.
    d. Add a little more clean fuel to the filters in the funnel, agitate mixture again, and allow fuel to collect remaining meth to the mason jar
    e. Once the filters have no more fuel, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much of the meth/fuel as possible, dump the inner contents that they contain into a plastic Ziploc baggie, and discard the filters
    f. Remove the cotton balls from the funnel, squeeze the fuel from them into the mason jar, and discard them
    38. Dump the contents of the RV into the same baggie with the rest of the reactants from the funnel, add a little clean fuel to this baggie, seal the baggie, and shake it around for 5 or 10 minutes to get as much of the trapped meth out of the reactants as possible.
    39. Repeat the filtering process as before filtering the new fuel from the baggie into the original fuel in the Mason Jar, but this time, once the fuel filters through, after squeezing the filters and the cotton balls to get the excess fuel, just throw the filters and cotton balls into the baggie with the rest of the reactants, seal it, and set it aside for disposal.
    • Water Pull
    o If you want to do gas Titration, please do it… Water pull is what I like…
    o If you have questions about Gassing, ASK ECSTACYBEANS… That dude loves to go on about Gassing…and on…and on…and on……..
    40. Add an equal amount of cold water to the fuel inthe Mason jar, put the cap on securely, and shake the fuck out of it for about 3-5 minutes to wash the fuel and remove certain impurities.
    a. Do not do this water cleaning if you are going to bang your dope as the sulfur impurities that you are washing away are the very things that provide that great fucking initial rush that takes your head outta this world when you get ahold of some good Banger’s Dope.
    41. Dump the Fuel/water mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from the wall by the corner of the bag with a tack
    42. Allow the layers to separate (Fuel will be on the top, and the dirty waste water on the bottom), poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie with the sewing needle and allow the waste water to drain into any container for disposal
    43. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for the Mason Jar and collect the fuel
    44. Repeat this washing process 1 more time
    45. After the 2nd water wash, pour the fuel from the Mason Jar into a plastic Ziploc baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.
    46. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of HCl acid to the fuel/water mix, shake it around for a minute
    47. Let the mixture settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH
    a. Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water beneath the fuel layer
    48. Repeat this process until the PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2
    a. Use some kind of PH testing (Meter, strips, drops, whatever)
    b. When you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop of HCL at a time, and retest PH after each drop
    i. It’svery easy to suddenly drop below target 7 PH and have dope that doesn’t smoke well
    ii. I want Y’all to do this part good so you can join me in Nagging Beans about our dope NOT being fucked up
    49. Let layers settle and separate, use a needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water solution onto your evaporation plate (Pyrex dish if you like)
    50. Pinch the hole in the corner of the baggie when the water is almost completely drained and then drain the fuel back into the Mason Jar
    a. Do not let any of the fuel pass through the drain hole onto the evaporation plate
    51. Repeat the water wash of the fuel, the addition of the 1/4 cup of water, the PH neutralizing (This time it will only probably need 2-3 drops of HCL total), and the collection of the water/meth once again to the same evaporation plate
    52. Use a blow-dryer and optionally a hot plate or non-gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a meth crystal layer on the plate
    53. Use a razor to scrape all of the meth into a pile
    54. You can abuse as you wish at this point
    a. The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns cleanly on your foil or pizzle
    b. Youc an continue onto the recrystallization from there if you like, but it’s not necessary
    • Acetone Wash
    55. Allow meth to completely dry
    56. Crush meth crystals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass
    57. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass until the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 – 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate…
    58. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain and collect at   58. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain and collect at the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impurities
    a. Save these nasty dissolved impurities to use as a cut on the shit you sell, or to smoke later when you’re in a bind as it will still contain some meth
    59. Scrape the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, or razor, or whatever, and then clean the shot glass
    ReCrystalization
    60. Scrape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add once again to the clean shot glass
    61. Use the CLEAN eyedropper once again to transfer the non-salt portion of the Isopropanol Alcohol from the jar in the freezer to a small saucepan and heat on stove until it starts boiling
    62. Use eyedropper to slowly add hot Isopropanol Alcohol to the meth in the shot glass
    a. Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.
    b. Stir...MA will dissolve...anything that doesn't is more impurity
    c. Siphon ISO/MA into 2nd shot glass carefully leaving solid impurities in first shot glass
    63. Heat ISO/MA till you just see first signs of film start to develop on surface.
    64. Remove from heat...add a drop or 2 more of ISO, add add a couple drops of Acetone for good measure, and allow to evaporate
    a. Freezer takes about 6 hours, produces smallest crystals
    b. Fridge = longer & bigger crystals
    c. Room temp = longest & biggest shards
    65. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing
    66. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold Acetone to remove surface impurities, and let completely dry one last time…
    • You now have beautiful crystal clear shards that will get you “NO” higher than the salt you started with, but they are pretty. Smoke them crystals, watch it run (clean as water with little to no trail), watch it crack back, it’s like Magic.

    That’s it.

    Sincerely, that’s as detailed with the steps as I can be…If you still can’t follow that, PLEASE just buy your dope off of someone that can!

    I wish you ALL the greatest of Success!

    Once again, the preceding post was a 100% hypothetical scenario that I generated based on the information that I’ve picked up reading this thread… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, as they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.

Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: amp on July 01, 2014, 11:47:26 am
Is there no way to get the following dialog that went with Li's instructions? Although it went a little off topic at times-there was a lot of useful info within everyones contributions.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: Meff_Head on July 01, 2014, 11:05:53 pm
Is there no way to get the following dialog that went with Li's instructions? Although it went a little off topic at times-there was a lot of useful info within everyones contributions. 8)

If you send me your email I will send you the whole file.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: oppenheimmer on July 02, 2014, 09:49:46 pm
im No cook meth head but i thought water pull was out off the question, it had to be gassing ??
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: AlHarringtonCHN on July 03, 2014, 03:45:36 pm
im No cook meth head but i thought water pull was out off the question, it had to be gassing ??

That is the correct consensus.  1P2P and others reminded all that Water pull, according to published scientific journals, carries over Lithium Salt contaminants of dangerous quantites. In the lab water pull is just not done. Li did address this and promoted safe gassing to anyone pulling the end result of a Birch Reduction.

Gas under a fume hood if possible. If not gas outside away from metal, wind and living creatures. HCl Gas is super nasty, highly corrosive to metal and living creatures. Contact with mucus membranes, especially eyes and lungs is devastating.  HCl gas is not easily controllable like its liquid form.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: shano on July 03, 2014, 04:55:42 pm
Spoiler
The liquid-liquid extraction is hard enough, but because the acidifyng of alkaline organic solvent is daunting task it should be done in parts. My thoughts is to use concentrated hydrochloric acid and evaparation vessel with condenser, but this is just assumption. The multistep extraction have their losses and difficult pH reaching is tricky, but its work. About ''gassing"  I've never done it, but maybe I should...
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: cian4ever on July 07, 2014, 03:37:55 pm
yea same here is there anyway to get the following dialog that went with Li's instructions? it had alot of useful info.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: foucault on July 09, 2014, 10:03:02 pm
,,,
Title: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on July 14, 2014, 03:02:22 pm
,,,
Title: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on July 14, 2014, 03:03:24 pm
,,,
Title: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on July 14, 2014, 03:49:34 pm
,,,
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: Peakedcuriosity on July 14, 2014, 09:40:13 pm
Say one were interested in "doubling" this recipe with 2 boxes (40 pills 12 hour). How would the remainder of the recipe change? Tripling, etc?  I'm quite sure not everything doubles or triples, etc. Anyone?
Title: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on July 15, 2014, 01:28:44 am
,,,
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: 2bwrit on July 19, 2014, 12:28:51 pm
this recipe is very close but no matter what one does it will always taste like fucking shit. I would be embarrassed to let anyone know that you made that. OK the high is not bad but when smoked all expectation of the dope is trashed after you taste it. Unless this is posted by a law official and they want you to fail. anyways my dog has done this method and 2 other methods a total of 20 times and by far this is the better of the 3. I know someone out there knows the little twist to make it taste good. My dog would push and pull (water pull) maybe that's where he went wrong so many times.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: Endo420 on July 21, 2014, 10:23:26 pm
There was another rxn tek in that thread later on that li said that he currently uses and it's a fair bit different.
Would you like me to share it here? I don't want to hijack your thread.

Endo
Title: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on July 21, 2014, 11:22:36 pm

,,,
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipe #100 - My Detailed Contribution By Li
Post by: Endo420 on July 22, 2014, 06:02:46 am
There was another rxn tek in that thread later on that li said that he currently uses and it's a fair bit different.
Would you like me to share it here? I don't want to hijack your thread.

Endo

LI's COLD COOK
Recommended Materials/Tools:

~ These are the tools/materials that I currently use... If you want to know if something else can be used as a substitution, please review the last 60 pages b/c its already been covered you lazy fuck... and FUCK YOU... I'm only listing US measurements outta spite at this point... Google your own fuckin conversions

- 1 box 24-hour Sudafed (2.4g Psuedoeffedrine)
- 1/4 cup Lye (Sodium Hydroxide –NaOH)
- 1/8 cup Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3– AN)
- About 100ml of Dyethel Ether (starting fluid)
- About 200ml of Hexane (CRC QD Electronics Cleaner)
- A Gallon of Distilled Water
- 1 "AA" Energizer Advanced Lithium battery
- 2 Pairs of Plyers
- 1/4 Cup Measuring Cup
- 1 Bag of Ice
- Pail/Container
- Box of Ziplock Baggies
- 1 500ml SodaStream Bottle
- 1 Roll of Gorilla Duct Tape
- Muriatic Acid mixed... [4 Parts Water : 1 Part Water] after being purchased
- Can of Acetone
- Blowdryer
- Small Pipe Cutter for Batteries
- 4 Coffee Filters
- Paper towels
- A Mason Jar
- A Pill Crusher
- A Plastic Funnel
- An Evaporation Plate
- Some Salt
- A Bottle of isopropanol alcohol

Basic Procedure Outline:

1) Heat the Bottom of the Soda Stream bottle with a blowdryer until the glue holding the bottom part to the bottle heats up and you are able to twist the bottom part off of the bottle.

2) Gorilla Tape The Bottom of the Bottle, an about an inch up the side of the bottle, and the seams going down the bottle.

3) Add about 100ml of Ether and 200ml of hexane to a baggie

4) Water Wash this Fuel Mix twice, and the transfer the fuel to the Soda Stream Bottle.

5) Fill the Pail/Container with Ice about 1/2 way and add a about 3-4 inches of water.

* The colder the better. I use an "ICEE MAKER" to shave the ice into snow like powder and put it into an Ice Tea pitcher about 3/4 full... then I add a couple of inches of water to make a "SLUSH BATH".

6) Put the SS Bottle with the Fuel into the ice-water bath, and leave it to allow fuel to get cold (I typically put SS Bottle with Fuel in the Freezer about an hour or so before cook).

7) When fuel is nice an cold, remove bottle from ice water, but keep it accessible.

8) Crush and Powder the PSE Pills and put the powder away for later.

8) Remove guts from battery and leave them submerged in some fuel.

8) Add 1/8 Cup AN to the SS Bottle

9) Add 1/4 Cup LYE to the SS Bottle

10) Tear the Li Strip in "stamp" size flat pieces or smaller and add them to Bottle

11) Add about 5ml distilled water to SS Bottle, quickly screw the cap on, and swirl the bottle to "re-coat" the Li with fuel.

* Cold = Ammonia Gas Condenses to Ammonia Liquid at lower pressures... AN + LYE still react even in the cold temp because of the addition of water...

Therefore, easy to create Ammonia Liquid and start the bronzing quickly

12) While the reaction is "Rolling" violently for the first 5-10 minutes, let the pressure in the bottle build until you cannot depress with the "thumb test", but perform SMALL vents as needed.

13) Depending on the type of Fuel, temp, strength of reaction, pressure, etc... you could see initial bronzing within the first 2-3 minutes.

14) When the reaction Starts to slow, let pressure build to your "thumb Pressure Test" capacity, and then submerge the bottle in the Ice Water Bath and Leave it for about 10-15 minutes or so.

* Keep watch of the pressure to be safe... If your ice bath is not cold enough to quickly slow the reaction, be sure to vent bottle as needed to prevent bottle failure.

15) After 15 minutes, you will probably have at least 1/2 of the Li Bronzed (Dark Bronze Flakes at this point), and the bottle will be depressurized considerably, and little to no reaction will be happening.

16) Shake the shit outta the bottle

* If you AN/LYE Reactants have become big hard clumps at the bottom... Shake the fuck outta the bottle until you break them mostly up... Either way, the reactants will "de-clump" later when we heat and shake...

17) Begin heating the fuck outta the bottle with blowdryer and shaking the hell outta it, to "re-initiate" reaction.

18) Perform small vents as needed while raising temp to get the reaction rolling again.

*As the fuel gets hot, you will see the Li Bronze flakes convert to Gold BB's and/or a Gold puddle... Pretty

19) Once Fuel is Hot and reaction is rolling strong again... Build pressure to limit and submerge into Ice bath one more time for another 10-15 minutes.

* After removing from Ice Bath again, You should have 80%-100% Li Dissolved.

20) Remove Bottle Cap, add PSE, and Add some recharge Reactants if you like.

* I always add about 1/16 cup AN and 1/8 cup of LYE with the PSE.

* I was adding PSE at the beginning for a while...got very good dope, but not great... Never got that head change when slamming it... Added PSE later on next cook...BAM... BANG ASS DOPE... Trust me, it makes a difference.

21) Shake the shit outta the bottle and you should have BLACK fuel INSTANTLY

22) Begin heating the Fuel and shaking the shit outta the bottle... Keep the fuel as hot as possible and maintain pressure as high as possible...

* From my experience, I'm still a 100% believer that temp and pressure during the reduction phase is essential to quality of product.

23) Continue Heating and Shaking (small vents as needed) until the fuel goes completely clear within about 15-20 seconds after shaking it, or until you have absolutely no LI/Bronze let at all (Meaning that your Li losses were too great and you did not have enough to reduce ALL the PSE)...

* Don't get in a hurry here... Sometimes this reduction phase can take 30-40 minutes... All GREAT things come to those who wait.

24) Filter fuel into Mason Jar

* Epsom??? IDK... I've been using 4 filters with a layer of table salt in the middle, and a paper towel plug in the neck of the filter.

25) IMPORTANT - Water wash the shit outta the fuel

* I do 3-4 very good washes of the fuel until the fuel barely clouds the water anymore... Has made an amazing difference.

26) Save about 25ml of fuel in a separate container to use as "Bring-Back" fuel while titrating.

27) Add about 15ml of distilled water to the clean fuel.

28) Add Muriatic/water mix SLOWLY (1-3 drops at a time) and shake until you see the fuel go cloudy and the layers have difficulty separating (indicating the solution has become acidic).

29) Add the "Bring-Back" fuel to raise the PH bac to neutral or slightly above.

30) Separate, drain & Collect Water, and Evaporate... When water/Meff mix thickens, I pour a good splash of Acetone on the plate and continue evap to crash out the crystals...

Shit's the Fucking Bomb, Bang Ass Dope... Safer with the temperature controlled pressure. Bronzes So much faster. Makes the best dope that I ever made or slammed, hand's down...

Gotta run Y'all.
That's the one :)
Title: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on August 06, 2014, 10:53:53 pm
,,,
Title: hidden spoiler
Post by: shano on August 07, 2014, 04:17:31 am
Spoiler
Ammonium sulfate is more expensive than ammonium nitrate and the last one is easier to find. Also if you do liquid-liquid extraction, the ammonium sulfate passing and contaminate the end product (but perhaps helps the crystallization, because saturates the solution and facilitates the formation). Also AN have 34%, AS only 21%. I have some trials with the two kinds of ammonia and cant tell which is better, but with sulfate the reaction media get very problematic...
Title: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on August 07, 2014, 08:17:59 pm
,,,
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: Insurgent on August 14, 2014, 03:25:20 am
Sure wish Meff posted the video he made of this RXN. Has anyone else seen it?
Title: Re: DONT DO METH
Post by: Insurgent on August 16, 2014, 02:35:34 am

,,,

Hey Mr. MooMoo, where is your RP/I rxn? I seen it posted and now its gone.
Title: Re: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on August 17, 2014, 02:44:41 am

,,,

Hey Mr. MooMoo, where is your RP/I rxn? I seen it posted and now its gone.

Sorry Bud, I will  only share that rxn via PM. If you or any one else wants it, pm me and I will share.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: amp on August 31, 2014, 03:24:57 am
Mr. Meff-Head ; 
  I appreciate your offer. Ever so tempting being as you are offering me what I want. I've spent many a moments pondering your offer but my hesitancy lies within giving you my information. Being new to the computer age I am afraid I've bitten into the "Don't Give Out Personal Info" apple. Being new, I've no idea as to circumvent such a seemingly minor hiccup. As it is though, I'm sorry, I will not offer you my e-mail. Bummer. I really dug reading all the shit talking that had tons of useful rhetoric within it also. Bummer........
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: amp on August 31, 2014, 03:52:03 am
Mr. Meff , may i ask one thing of you? Any other suggesgions ? Help is always greatly appreciated.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: 2bwrit on September 01, 2014, 03:40:10 am
yea i saw the video, very good takes some balls to make a video like that if it is the same video i saw its after chemicals are all together and basicly see the reaction that takes place in the flask you don't see anybody but still takes a set of nuts to do, so hats off to you.  Also thanks purple cow on the e-mail. Is there a way you can send it (rp/i rxn) to me again a couple days after i got it my computer crashed had to redo the whole fucking thing. I had a question or two of some of the things on the rxn its probably the way i'm understanding it but just different wording. Amp these post are only info most of the time a good cook will always leave out 1 major thing. that way when you try, and it doesnt come out, you are will to pay big money to learn how to really do it. cya
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: amp on September 01, 2014, 04:02:54 am
Makes sense about the leaving shit out just so they can be paid. What I was inquiring about was all the dialog that had transpired on totse2 before its demise. Information could be gleaned, or, just plain assed funny. The rants and obvious anger were hilarious. To top it off I was given a gift that pequed my curiosity. Information.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: 2bwrit on September 01, 2014, 11:01:19 am
I agree with you amp, there was a lot of info that was very valuable. I myself don't have any of the info from totse, but im sure a few may have a few things copied. What we need is people to post here on this site. Kinda make it come alive a bit
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: amp on September 01, 2014, 12:35:56 pm
I'm going to say that I agree. There were so many people that were posting before that I had only one from me. To which I said 'thank you' to all the people posting. I think I am upwards of 9 now. But mine are of no relevant value. There was so much intelligence within those pages that I was afraid to say anything in fear of showing my ignorance. What would it take for us to get a thriving community such as before? To have the amount of dialog again so one can pick and choose what they were interested in and then get involved. Its unfair because I had only just begun and all seems to be gone forever. I am thankful to all those in the past for showing me that intimidation is only an excuse used to not attempt.
Title: Re: DONT DO METH
Post by: Road_Kill on September 03, 2014, 04:21:43 pm
,,,
your post be looking alot like Pit's there buddy. You turds still playing with SnB?
Title: Re: DONT DO METH
Post by: PurpleCow on September 03, 2014, 04:39:42 pm
,,,
your post be looking alot like Pit's there buddy. You turds still playing with SnB?
RK, How the hell ya been man?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on October 07, 2014, 08:41:57 am
this recipe is very close but no matter what one does it will always taste like fucking shit. I would be embarrassed to let anyone know that you made that. OK the high is not bad but when smoked all expectation of the dope is trashed after you taste it. Unless this is posted by a law official and they want you to fail. anyways my dog has done this method and 2 other methods a total of 20 times and by far this is the better of the 3. I know someone out there knows the little twist to make it taste good. My dog would push and pull (water pull) maybe that's where he went wrong so many times.

Obviously, d-meth tastes like d-meth when it is smoked... the difference in taste that you are referring to is simply the taste of the impurities remaining in the dope from the TEK used.

Following this TEK PERFECTLY can Honestly produce a product with nearly a 90% purity (product has been produced and tested by extremely capable cooks with means to actually test purity). Even so, 10% impurity, or more in most cases, is FAR MORE than enough to alter the taste.

So, can the product, with use of this TEK, be produced pure enough to avoid the undesired taste of the impurities?... Sure.

One great start is to extract the PSE rather than gup chucking... But one of the significant advantages to this TEK is NOT having to extract the PSE (which is extremely difficult to do without significant losses these days)... And if you are putting the time and effort into extracting PSE, you might as well do it in larger quantities and use an alternate TEK to reduce the PSE...

A decent alternative to actually EXTRACTING the PSE, not stated in the original post, is to simply wash the pills with fuel (soak the crushed pill mass in dry non-polar for a few hours, and then filter it off and let it dry before use). Without getting too detailed, you SHOULD be transferring almost NO water with your fuel/meff solution when your cook is completed...So you need not be overly concerned about the impurities that are water soluble (most of them will remain with the solids in the RV)... The majority of the non-polar soluble impurities WILL BE transferred with your fuel/meff solution after the completion of the cook if you do not remove them with the fuel was detailed above.

Next, a much more in-depth post RXN work-up will significantly increase purity... (especially including a very good brine wash of the fuel).

Finally, if one was inclined to do so for such a small yield, proper recrystallization will even further increase purity... This TEK has produced a product with greater than a 99% purity when tested with lab grade precursors, a thorough post RXN work-up, and multiple recrystallizations... With that said, the typical yield of about 1.5g was reduced to about .7g due to the removal of the impurities and the associated mechanical losses...

So, all in all, I would argue that the time and losses are not worth the increase in purity with the small yields using this TEK... I would recommend fuel washing your pill mass, performing a good post RXN work up, and perfecting your technique with this TEK... If you do this, you CAN potentially achieve a purity in the mid 90%'s... This will greatly reduce the taste of the impurities in the final product...

If you are still unsatisfied with the taste at that point, I would recommend an alternate TEK or an alternate ROA.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on October 08, 2014, 11:57:19 pm
I'm going to say that I agree. There were so many people that were posting before that I had only one from me. To which I said 'thank you' to all the people posting. I think I am upwards of 9 now. But mine are of no relevant value. There was so much intelligence within those pages that I was afraid to say anything in fear of showing my ignorance. What would it take for us to get a thriving community such as before? To have the amount of dialog again so one can pick and choose what they were interested in and then get involved. Its unfair because I had only just begun and all seems to be gone forever. I am thankful to all those in the past for showing me that intimidation is only an excuse used to not attempt.

Amp,

Just remember that NO ONE posting on the thread that you are referring to knew less than Li(NH3)4. If I remember correctly, a few months before she posted that recepie, she didn't even know what a non polar solvent was and she had to look up every other word and chemical online just to understand what everyone else was talking about...

But she believed in herself, and she was determined, and I can ensure you that she left NOTHING out and had no interest in getting paid.

I must agree though... I will miss all of the great rants and dialog from that thread.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on October 16, 2014, 12:38:33 pm
Say someone could only find cold compresses with CAN (Calcium Ammonium Nitrate). Is this acceptable, or would some work need to be done to get the AN separated?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on October 16, 2014, 01:29:23 pm
Say someone could only find cold compresses with CAN (Calcium Ammonium Nitrate). Is this acceptable, or would some work need to be done to get the AN separated?

Where did you get the cold packs with Calcium Ammonium Nitrate?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on October 16, 2014, 02:42:46 pm
I am assuming they were purchased from Wal-Mart.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on October 16, 2014, 02:52:07 pm
I am assuming they were purchased from Wal-Mart.


Well go to Dollar General and buy DG Health instant Ice Compress (Active Ingredients: Ammonium Nitrate & Water)
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on October 16, 2014, 06:44:40 pm
I would also like to ask a question that someone else has asked but has not been answered. The "recipe" calls for 2.4g of PSE, let's say someone only has 1.44g to work with. Would that change anything else?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on October 17, 2014, 11:06:26 am
I would also like to ask a question that someone else has asked but has not been answered. The "recipe" calls for 2.4g of PSE, let's say someone only has 1.44g to work with. Would that change anything else?

You could scale everything back. I would use no more than 1 Li strip (1 battery).
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on October 17, 2014, 09:58:30 pm
Is there any way to tell if the end result of this is going to be alright? Is it going to be a bad thing if it is too acidic? (As in hurt/kill you)
If it is too acidic is that going to cause damage? These are things that should be addressed IMO
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: AlHarringtonCHN on October 19, 2014, 06:46:36 pm
Is there any way to tell if the end result of this is going to be alright? Is it going to be a bad thing if it is too acidic? (As in hurt/kill you)
If it is too acidic is that going to cause damage? These are things that should be addressed IMO


All that is covered under the first two rules of doing something like this. They read: "learn the basics of Chemistry" and "understand the rxn before performing it".

That said, the "acid" you refer to is "possible residual HCl" remaining from Salting out the MA.

So how much HCl could be leftover?

Lets look at the water pull method even though it should NOT be used. (Want to know why? Research it. Answers are out there. No spoon feeding)

-With a medicine dropper diluted muriatic acid is added to a highly basic solution.
-The HCl begins at first to Neutralize the solution.
-As the pH drops below 10.5, the polar dissolved MA begins to take on HCl molecules and Methamphetamine Hydrochloride is formed. It is immediately "dropped" into the polar layer and dissolves
-this is done until the pH of the water is ~7.

So....
-If the pH of the water is ~7
-all the MA is dissolved in said water

Chemistry tells us available HCl would at worst be in the ppBillion. With sloppiness and poor technique at wost ppMillion.
That is before the First Acetone wash.

Besides... your shit would be yellow-greenish and smell Horrid long before becoming dangerous due to HCl. Remember Pool water is in the ppmillion and begins to take on a strong smell at around 5 ppm.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on October 29, 2014, 11:05:15 am
   Sorry I am saying this now, been bout 1500 miles away for a couple weeks.
Anyway, I want to add this:
      I wouldn't say this is dangerous, unless you are a complete fucktard. I am not going to say do it this way, but a Powerade bottle seems as if it would work fine, there is plenty of spread.
My other bit of input would be bringing the product from the fuel to the water. Most definitely test pH, otherwise a waste of money as this is a very crucial step, The best sense I can make in my head is that the closer you get to 7 the better it is.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: newshoes52 on November 18, 2014, 04:09:31 am
Ok so this is my first post...so here it goes.  Lucho..a real good pal of a pal..decided to try this thing called bake n shake.  After reading and studing and reading and researching.. he set out and began expirementing determined to figure out this one pot concocktion.   After some days and weeks he in fact  eventually masterd the process and whats more..listening to him go on an on one might argue there is little he doenst know about making side via SnB ( if you dont recognize the slang ask around).  However lucho the poor bastard soon discoverd   that it doesnt matter how much gear ya make if you cant move it--well---aint  a viable retirement financial plan. The problem was that the he could never get the final product  to recrystize into huge chuncks of ice. Hes seen it that way out on the street (like 1/4oz were one big solid chunck). Fustrsted and feeling abit perturbed. He threw in the towel and abandoned the whole freakin project.  Its a damn shame(according to my  pal) cause the shit he was making burnned cean and clean could be and the taste wasnt too bad. Not too mention ..christ would it get ya ripped (or so im told).
     In a nutshell ..if i was a mindreader i would  geuss that Lucho figured if he coulndt get the massive chuncks tweekers liked to buy.. his gear wouldnt be marketable.  Visual presentation seems to superseed quality or so it seems although common sense tells me bigger doesnt mean better.    Too bad jibbers buyin the shit dont seem to feel that way.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 20, 2014, 08:46:54 pm
Sad news to me. If you can't recrystallize shake and bake, then you can't recrystallized any meth. You need to do a two part recrystallisation with acetone and isopropanol alcohol or denatured alcohol. Or if you're the patient type, just let that water sit around until it completely drives into one solid chunk that you're looking for
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on November 21, 2014, 04:51:17 pm
Noticed that it hadn't been mentioned anything about a second pull from the fuel (the part before evaporating the water, so someone went ahead and tried it, and holy shit. I heard the stuff was actually very decent.

Edit: Oh man, I think this may have been a big loss all along!   :(
It does say this in the OP.
A lot of dope has been flushed down the toilet...
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on November 21, 2014, 06:18:20 pm
Noticed that it hadn't been mentioned anything about a second pull from the fuel (the part before evaporating the water, so someone went ahead and tried it, and holy shit. I heard the stuff was actually very decent.

Edit: Oh man, I think this may have been a big loss all along!   :(
It does say this in the OP.
A lot of dope has been flushed down the toilet...

Step 51 is the second pull. " Repeat the water wash of the fuel, the addition of the 1/4 cup of water, the PH neutralizing (This time it will only probably need 2-3 drops of HCL total), and the collection of the water/meth once again to the same evaporation plate"
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on November 21, 2014, 08:02:22 pm
Yeah, I saw that. Kinda feel stupid.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on November 22, 2014, 08:49:03 pm
Out of curiousity here. If someone dropped below the target pH is there any way to bring it back up?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on November 22, 2014, 08:55:30 pm
Out of curiousity here. If someone dropped below the target pH is there any way to bring it back up?

Did you save some "bring back fuel"?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on November 22, 2014, 09:07:15 pm
Adding some fuel will increase pH? Can it be new fuel or does it need to be set aside before adding acid?

Not having problems with, it this is just something hat i thought i saw somewhere but don't remember where

Would definitely be a useful bit of information.
I'm also assuming adding water would be a waste of time.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on November 22, 2014, 09:35:39 pm
There is somebody hoping that there is another way otherwise there has been a real waste that happened
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on November 22, 2014, 10:09:54 pm
Wondering if just adding some new clean fuel would work for the pH problem or would it fuck your stuff up? Or maybe use lye to make it basic and then acid to neutralize?
Or could you make "bring back fuel" somehow without needing  PSE?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on November 23, 2014, 12:29:40 am
Wondering if just adding some new clean fuel would work for the pH problem or would it fuck your stuff up? Or maybe use lye to make it basic and then acid to neutralize?
Or could you make "bring back fuel" somehow without needing  PSE?

Try mixing some new fuel with lye to raise the ph level. Water wash the fuel a couple of times. Use the new fuel to raise your old fuel to ph 7.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on November 23, 2014, 12:37:58 am
http://web.archive.org/web/20130821044403/http://totse2.com/showthread.php?15335-Shake-n-Bake-Recipie-100-My-Detailed-Contribution
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 23, 2014, 09:16:52 pm
Must be charged fuel from the reaction... Fresh fuel will neither help nor hurt...

After rxn and water washes, set aside maybe 20ml of fuel as bring back...

Not a bad idea to keep 20 - 50ml of bring back fuel in the freezer in case you ever come up short after a run.

If you are just slightly acidic, tap water will actually bring the ph back up a little...assuming you are not using well water.

I believe that the OP of this recepie finds the following to be the simplest and best route for her:

1) set aside about 20ml of bring back fuel
2) add about 10-15ml of bottled water to fuel/Neff solution
3) add 2 drops of muriatic acid at a time to neutralize solution ( shake well after each addition)
4) continue until the fuel goes cloudy and will not go clear again after shaking (you will be able to tell...the fuel should be completely clear prior to this process and Will continue returning to completely clear after shaking until PH drops below 7...then it will be obviously foggy)
5)add the 15-20ml of the bring back fuel and shake and the fuel Will be clear again (indicating that the PH is above 7)
6)seperate and evap water.

No need to waste time/money/effort with testing PH repeatedly as PH will likely be somewhere in the 7.2-7.5 range which is great. (Feel free to test the final PH if it sets your mind at ease.

If you go far below neural and do not have resources to bring back, you can alwayz rebase the meth and then do another a/b extraction, but I don't have the time to cover it now...

Great link there Purple Cow.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: foucault on November 24, 2014, 03:05:17 am
I miss pinghat :(
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on November 24, 2014, 03:18:20 am
A good link indeed seeing as I searched less than a week ago for it and found nothing.

Anyhow, This TEK doesnt work anymore, metal doesnt transition to the liquid faze and RXN doesnt m1lksh4ke like it used to. Looks like the gup chuck was countered after the effs bees saw the popularity of this tek on T0T$3two.whatever website. 

Note to sanctuary:

BLTC is where its at. Keep it there.

Need for EssNBee Ongoing Contribution Thread #001.  Pronto
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 24, 2014, 10:50:44 am
Funny coincidence... I found a paper next to a trash can at a gas station that referred to a couple of similar experiences recently... It interested me, as most things do, so I took it home and typed it out for future research planning to take the original to the local authorities, but Damn if I didn't lose it... Old age I guess... Anyway, here's some of what must have been notes or a research journal entry or some shit like that:

First 2 batches after takin a few months off:

First batch:
Bout 6 grams of generic red hots (simple fuel wash of pill mesh and decant) then gup chucked...
Normal reactants, Hexane, Li x3...
Li -> LI(NH3)4 just as smooth and easy as ever...

Observations upon addition of pill mass:
Fuel is dark and cloudy from li saturation, but never seems to achieve the thicker "chocolate milk" appearance expected when the pse bases...
After completely exhausting the Li/bronze:
The fuel remained dark and cloudy...took 5-10 min for the dark cloud mass to settle 1/2 way down the bottle... Never formed a the expected Li Amide distinct Gray Sandy looking top layer above the reactants...

Filtering:
Filters we're full of a of a lavender colored slime as the clear fuel was filtered...

Final product:
Potentcy was actually surprisingly pretty good - 7 out of 10
Purity was noticeably lower than expected... Color a little off when melted... Obvious black residue left as it burned up... 5 out of 10
Yield: expected about 4g ma... Ended with 3g... 5 out of 10

Second batch:
Same other than bout 3g pse and Li x2...
Maybe most beautiful TMS ever done... Fuel maintained with a nice light blue tint... Complete beautiful puddle of bronze mercury floating on the fuel...

Addition of pse...
Same issues as first batch but even more pronounced this time...

Potentcy - sucked - 5 out of 10
Purity -  same issues as batch one with noticeable pinwheels throughout dried crystals and very slow to crack back when melted. 3 out of 10
Yield - expected about 1.9g ma... Ended with about 1.4g ma and pse - 4 out of 10


Just thought I would pass that along as it seemed to have some relavence... I guess the smart chem enthusiast would do nearly identical rxns...1 With gup chilucked and one extracted...

Personally, I am FAR more intrigued by the beez and the effs and the EssNbeez... My friend (or bff as the kids say now) sayz that the best trip experience she ever had was getting lost in the web chasing beez...wondering if it was a never ending rabbit hole or is she had simply imagined the trail she thought she was following in her state of delirium...

I was awed by brief communications and interaction with an uncle that I sadly didn't maintain contact with... I never could follow all of his technical writing, which was like poetry, but I guess that is to be expected without formal trading in the art of that cryptic language...

Maybe if I had been in a different circle a different time... who knows... So many mysteries and such a short life to acquire knowledge...

Y'all rock.


Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on November 24, 2014, 07:42:34 pm
Yes Deja, 2 runs would be ideal. But as for an extraction, resources are slim and a tek for said extraction is beyond grasp unless you can hunt one up. I know there was one on  t0t$3ttwo before it got raided.  The Straight to Bee i believe? But thats old shit that probably wouldnt work on todays gaks.

Anyone got a workaround or shall they try the microwave?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on November 24, 2014, 08:11:45 pm
The vespiary?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 24, 2014, 09:26:55 pm
Venom,

There's a lot in those notes that I found that I want to pass onto you and any others that may find it as interesting as I have...

First, the simple answer without supporting explaination...based on what I have read, I can PROMISE you that the Transition to a Metallic State (TMS) is not the issue, or any issue at all. Keep a bucket of cold water handy... When you have produced a significant portion of the brackish flakes, let pressure build to near your venting threshold and then cool the reaction by setting the bottle in the cold water... This will slow the reaction, reduce the pressure, and cause all those flakes to surface, and get skinny, and stick together, and create shiny bbs and puddles of golden mercury... And fuel will clear as all the Li(NH3)4 clears out of the fuel.

Explaination.... I am typing on a phone at the moment, and have no access to the notes that I transposed, but this evening I will try to locate an amazing research report regarding TMS that really gives a lot more understanding of the physics of this reaction... Off the top of my head I will explain a little the best that I can as it relates to transition shifts that you are explaining...

First of all, it's relatively easy to manipulate the Li(NH3)4 phases from the brackish flakes to the copper bbs to to golden mercury and vice versa (I honestly don't understand a lot of it, and I'm ok admitting that as the leading physicists in the field don't fully understand it at this point), but the factors that are being balanced to maintain the small window of the actual TMS are pressure, temperatue, and saturation of free electrons... It's pretty amazing to see when you know what to watch for (at least from what I read)... The lightly saturated solution will cause a clear fuel to take on a faint blue tint caused by the energy of the traveling free electrons...(the faint color is actually the tail end of the elections...like a comet...crossing into the visible plain.. Shit outta time 4 now... I'll try to pass more on with references soon...
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on November 24, 2014, 11:23:08 pm
Yes Deja, 2 runs would be ideal. But as for an extraction, resources are slim and a tek for said extraction is beyond grasp unless you can hunt one up. I know there was one on  t0t$3ttwo before it got raided.  The Straight to Bee i believe? But thats old shit that probably wouldnt work on todays gaks.

Anyone got a workaround or shall they try the microwave?

(http://i.imgur.com/D50mY0i.gif)  The following is Wareami's LT Method  (http://i.imgur.com/D50mY0i.gif)

This is purely solvent separation of an hcl salt, not acid/base extraction.

The mechanics of this process were never given much air play.

The same principals and processes, in theory, have been outlined in other extraction techiques deployed and offered up by Ibee in the past.

First thing to consider.
With all solvent based extractions, smelly solvents are used. Those solvents need to evaporate and the material dried to recover the goods.
Never attempt these types of extractions/separations without adequate and proper ventilation. If doing these extractions in a garage or shed, always have some side projects going like painting or furniture refinishing....
Ibee's living conditions once required him to complete an LT extraction outdoors. 3 different times. Alcohol and substance free Half-Way houses frown on their residents cooking drugs :blackeye:
Anyhow...the smell of the evaporating LT leaves alot to be desired. That is the only drawback reported by most who have used this method.

Next...The process by which these solvents either release or activate certain components used to comprise the pills depends heavily on being able to contact those individual components/gaaks/binders etc.
Ibee found the most effective way to expose every last molecule to the treatments/solvents applied, is by making certain that all the pills are finely crushed and every grain powdered.
Many use coffee grinders for expediency sake...plus when working with large amounts as most will, it's a pain in the arse paying that much attention to the process.
Ibee would use a coffee grinder, but would never stop there if he wanted his yields and quality to be the highest degree achievable.
Mortar and Pestal powdering would follow the preliminary mass grinding.

Next...The process by which the Prewash come in contact with the pillmass(PM) is equally important.
The time exposed to this solvent prewash cocktail does matter.
You all should know from past reports by Ibee, that the tetra works by exciting the polymers causing them to be more attracted or distracted by the solvent which causes them to loose their grip on the pfed...for a time. There is a stage after time that the polymers will rebind with the pfed after losing their affinity for swimming freely. Ibee sat and watched this occur believe it or not.
The activity level of the PM in the Prewash subsides after time. Don't let the PM soak in the juice longer than it takes to get your filterfunnel ready. One minute to two minutes at the most.
So...the object here is to put the finely powdered PM into a bowl or small glass, then after thoroughly mixing the Prewash Juice in a separate flask,(swirling is not enough...the two different viscosity levels of tetra and LT will keep them separated as two layers until physically stirred.) Add this juice to the PM and stir everything thoroughly. The tendency of the PM will be to float on top and clump together some. Break it up making sure every granule is contacted by the juice.
Then pour everything into the prepared SINGLE COFFEE FILTERED funnel catching the now gaaked juice into another jar.
The reason for using one single filter is the porosity of just one filter alllows for the escape of the now liquified gaaks that have lost their grip on the Pfed.
Spray down the bowl sides with tetra with the spraytube provided if using tetra from brakeparts or electrical parts cleaners to get all the PM into the filter.
This excess tetra also acts to help wash the PM before proceeding.

The egull method used tetra alone to accomplish this step. pfed is completely insoluble in tetra so one could easily pour the PM onto cardboard or paper to speed up the drying process.
This cannot be done that way with LT/Tetra treated PM becuase the polar solvents have made the pfed readily soluable with anything it comes in contact with when wet. Hence, the pfed will stick to and be absorbed by paper or other porous material.
So don't handle the filter cake too much....just ball up the filter and squeeze out the excess juice. Take the filter unfold and pour the PM onto a pyrexplate to dry. Dry the filterpaper as well as some of the PM will be stuck to it and can be removed and added to the other recovered PM after drying. Just scrunch up the filter paper when dry over top of the pyrexplate and the powder will fall off.
Now that you have the dried PM collected in the pyrex dish, this next part deserves some explaination about volume, solvation, and surface area.

Simply put, we have a solid substance we are trying to separate from a whole host of other solid substances. All have varying degrees of weight and solubility factors. Some are water soluable, others won't disolve unless they come in contact with the solvent they were created with. For the most part however, many of the substances used to make the pills are soluble in the same solvents that pfed is soluble in.
The trick is in keeping the rest of the substances that were designed to ride with the pfed, from riding with pfed.
Enter the Lacquer Thinner!
What makes LT a superior solvent to alcohol and water extractions
Alcohol extractions were defeated mainly because most of these gaaks/binders/polymers will dissolve right along with the pfed and therefore be present in the evapped result. If the polymer was included to prevent extraction, then it's "Game On" in trying to find ways of circumventing their purpose!
Dreamers and Bees rely heavily on being able to extract the goodz in as pristeen clean a state as possible and it had become the pharmers jobs to prevent this.

Okay...now comes a crucial mechanical part.
This involves the step that takes the most time and patience in this process. It involves not only the extraction of pfed but most critical is the equipment used and the process followed to a tee for best results.
The settling period, or waiting until the LT/Pfed solution above the PM solids becomes clear.
Half-assing this wait, or pulling when cloudy is sure to provide unsatisfactory yields as well as reduced quality and the result will be gaaked. Not "May be" Will be.
Ibee always strives for pristeen clean feed in the highest yield achievable and with patience and due diligence, gets it or considers the method not worthy.
With todays higher price of all materials used as well as feedstock being in shorter supply, one can't cut corners if they want to get the most bang for the buck.


The reason tall jars work most effectively compared to shorter squat jars is the surface area and the settling factors of the various weight gaaks/binders are affected by the volume of solvent used.
Many hidden factors exist in why this method is able to keep the gaaks with the same solubility as pfed from moving up into the solute layer.
Ibee won't pretend to know every angle, but the various options have been experimented with over time and settled on what works best. He can only outline what he believes is going on and why
Here is an image of the two vessel shapes to give some better idea of what we're dealing with!
(http://i.imgur.com/2Ny9zRz.jpg)

The liquid/solid issue is a biggie when one factors in gravity of the various weight substances.
The further a substance needs to travel to reach what it wants to occupy, the harder it is to occupy that space. Couple that fact with substances of like solubility competing for space, and the one that gets there first will most likely be dissolved. In a flat round container...that distance is minimal surface wise and the liquid is more spread out. Eventually some of that unwanted gaak substance will gravitate and be dissolved into the liquid.
In the taller cylindrical shaped vessel, the pfed will dissolve as will the other gaaks but after settling, the pfed stays dissolved while the other heavier gaaks sink back to the bottom.
Ibee has pulled gaaks when using short squat vessels.

So if it takes 4 hours for the first pull to clear....you wait 4 hours on that pull.
The next pulls off the same PM will clear in less time.
Ibee has used 2 jars and splits the PM between them and extracts separately sometimes. This shortens the wait time on clearing and it also expedites the time it takes to all the pfed.

So....WAITING UNTIL CLEAR is critical...so is the size and shape of the jar/vessel used to extract with LT.

Now onto the next process of critical importance.
After clearing, this LT/Pfed solution needs to be PULLED off the top being careful not to stir up the gaaks that will get kicked up into the solvent containing the pfed if disturbed.
The last thing you want to do after waiting that long time for things to clear, is to make it cloudy again accidently. Decanting or pouring off will disturb the PM sediment.
Ibee uses a modified eyeclearing solution bottle he adapted with a tube.
Here is a pic of a makeshift syphoner/puller:
(http://i.imgur.com/Z4hBbTs.jpg)

Ibee's tried using basters and other modified mass liquid pullers and all failed because of the airflow or leaks and other anomolies introduced that don't have the control needed to keep the liquid from dripping back down and disturbing the PM sediment.

Pull the LT/Pfed liquid off, and put through fine filtration device postioned over a pyrex pie plate, collecting to evap.
Do each pull separately....one plate per pull if doing multiple jars at once.
Too much liquid evapping at once will take forever to evap.
Ibee has used a hotplate on the lowest temp setting to expedite this process, but again, the smell of LT is hideos!

A suitable fine filtering gravity fed filter device can be made thusly using a funnel, cottonballs, and coffee filters.

Be sure to clamp this funnel upright, securely, and make sure the bottom of the stem is not more than 1-3 inches(2.54-7.62 cm) above the evap collection dish or goodz will splash out as it drips.
Prewet the filters with LT before adding the LT/Pfed.
And be sure to test the funnel first if it's plastic to make sure the LT won't dissolve the plastic. Ibee likes the metal funnels for this process.

(http://i.imgur.com/T8p18VT.jpg)

There ya have it....Evap the LT/Pfed in each evapdish and SWIM should be left with sparkling white fiberglass-type looking needles of pfed.
One could dissolve these in alcohol and the resulting evapped pfed will be pinwheel shaped pfed xtals.
If even the slightest amount of discoloration is seen in these xtals, wash with MEK asnd the result should be sparkling white pristeenclean feedstock.

As you can tell by the length of this post...there is alot to be considered about extraction and Ibee didn't even elaborate on every single aspect of this process.
Start to finish, one should have their feedstock in about 2-6 hours depending on how much gaak is involved and depending on how long it takes the solution to clear before pulling.

Hope this helps.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2d
Post by: ChronicBoom! on November 25, 2014, 04:04:09 am
Does the acetone remove the lithium contaminants ? Recent first hand experience why too much lithium can be so awful. I have been thinking feds were after me n a lot of things like that and actually seeing people outside and have in my case realized it was most definitely the lithium. There will most definitely be good watching of the lithiums reaction and good washing going on.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on November 25, 2014, 04:53:51 am
Dejavu:
;) I remember the first discussion of Lithiums TMS on T0ts3two.... Some guy posted some articles about it. Not too long after that the damn site went down! None the less share away, In PM of course.

Purplecow:
Thank you for the information. Reading through it right now.

Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 25, 2014, 11:48:38 am
Rather than trying to type out a thesis on this, that I guarantee i'll fuck up the explanation on as I don't have the chemistry/physics background to truly understand it all, I will pm you a pdf, or a link to it, that will give you all the info that you will ever need... This article is a fucking goldmine imo.

Then, I'll just follow it up with an explanation oh how this information has apparently been observed and applied in real practicle experience, according to the notes that I found...
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 25, 2014, 01:06:16 pm
Purple,

Another great reference and procedure...

I want to point out that a procedure like that would be well worth performing so that a gup chucked vs. Extracted pfed experiment could be properly performed and definitive results could be achieved...

With that said,, this process of extracting pse would not be practicle for the tek outlined in this forum... The average expected yields of the tek are about 1.5 - 3g of product for each bake... The quantity simply doesn't justify the cost/effort/time/smell associated with the extraction...

I think it's important to remember that this tek CAN produce "BANG ASS DOPE"... But the TRUE goal and advantages of this tek is to produce very respectively GOOD product quickly, easily, and cheaply...

With that in mind, this is just a personal idea/theory that could be tried...

I know that in the old "Annie" dayz, some enthusiasts would would use sodium hydroxide and ammonium nitrate in non polar to generate ammonia gas... Then they would just though the gup chucked pill mass in, give the psed time to base, and then either use the "extracted" pse in base form or perform an a/b extraction and use the pse hcl for their actual cook.

If one were to do say:

Soak the pse pill mass in np for a 6 hours prior to getting started, then siphon off and discard the "wash fuel" containing the non polar soluble impurities from the pill mass.

Dry and 're-crush the pill mass and the through it in a shake bottle with some np, lye, and an for maybe 30-45 min shaking it around now and then to get all of the pse to base.

Filter off and perform a/b on the fuel to retrieve "extracted" pse hcl crystals for use in actual cook...

Obviuosly this would not be as pure as the tek that you posted, but my thoughts are that it should be pretty damn good...and even though it's a pain in the ass compared to simply gup chucking, it requires no new materials and no New process for the baker to learn.

Thoughts?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 25, 2014, 02:11:20 pm
Venom,

Can you let me know if you received my pm when you get a chance? It didn't show up in my messages... I don't want to waste the time pasting references and shit if you already got it.

Thanx
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 26, 2014, 11:07:01 pm
Venom,

Was looking back at the notes and realized that the reactants used in the reaction were purchased around March... The red hots were purchased recently at walleyworld, the Hexane was crc qd electronics cleaner and purchased recently, and the Li was purchased recently. Apparently Soda Steam bottles were used, so there were no issues maintaining very high pressure throughout the rxn.

Once again, there was absolutely no issue with bronzing the Li... But the bringingsame exact issues were observed with the visual differences of the rxn and the color, characteristics, and quality of the final product.

Just hoping that someone might find this information useful towards determining what may have changed...
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on November 27, 2014, 02:28:12 am
Venom,

Was looking back at the notes and realized that the reactants used in the reaction were purchased around March... The red hots were purchased recently at walleyworld, the Hexane was crc qd electronics cleaner and purchased recently, and the Li was purchased recently. Apparently Soda Steam bottles were used, so there were no issues maintaining very high pressure throughout the rxn.

Once again, there was absolutely no issue with bronzing the Li... But the bringingsame exact issues were observed with the visual differences of the rxn and the color, characteristics, and quality of the final product.

Just hoping that someone might find this information useful towards determining what may have changed...

DeJaVu, check this article out by tramp over at Wet Dreams

these are pictures of two different emulsifiers used as denaturants for pseudoephedrine cold pills...

This is an emulsifier. It is believed to be amine based but its true identity is unknown. She calls it the HellGaak. It does not succumb to solvents. Well, obviously it does, but it has identical solubility profile as the target molecule. It is active in exceptionally small amounts and and absolutely can hide inside clear as glass crystal... still not certain how it accomplishes this, but it indisputably can and will do so. Present in large enough amounts, it will inhibit steam distillation. In fact, that is its entire purpose: to inhibit separation. It is very exceptionally good at this. Notice how it looks so much like polysorbate 80:

(http://i.imgur.com/JgvzxUJ.jpg)

(Polysorbate 80 is another heinous emulsifier. Typically found in red hots. Ugly shit. Inhibits crystallization. Inhibits reduction. Inhibits separation above all. Exceptionally difficult to remove.)

This is a picture of a non-polar freebase solution after the HellGaak emulsifier was forced to precipitate out of solution.
(She waits for a full moon, strips off all her clothes and dances until sunrise with a big red dragon. This induces separation!)
Clean freebase solution on top, HellGaak on bottom!
(http://i.imgur.com/0PZbeRw.jpg)

same thing viewed from above:
(http://i.imgur.com/tmSEzF4.jpg)

A Tale of Two Emulsifiers: Polysorbate 80 and HellGaak 1.0
(http://i.imgur.com/RKLbIeI.jpg)

The HellGaak emulsifier does same thing as polysorbate 80 --- essentially serves as an extraction inhibitor by preventing separation of aqueous and organic phases -- except HellGaak is very much more difficult to remove and very much more destructive...

this shit is super potent and seems effective in parts per thousand if not parts per ten thousand (or less) levels...
it takes a hell of a lot less of the new emulsifier than the old one... translated, it means one's extractions have to be better and one's techniques much, much better...

these emulsifiers are resistant to simple removal via solvent washes...
in fact, I do not believe it possible to remove either by solvents alone... especially the HellGaak... its soluble in everylast thing that pse and meth are soluble in...

this is an advanced American adulterant... polysorbate can be found everywhere but so far, the HellGaak variant appears isolated to the US...

the HellGaak appeared in American 120's right about the time the snb hysteria reached its peak...
the name brand 120's always were **very** vulnerable to anhydrous extraction...
the snb is nothing but an anhydrous extraction (among other things)...
the snb was putting unfavorable attention on manufacturer of the product so they developed a denaturant to specifically inhibit the product's use in the snb... they attacked it on the anhydrous extraction part of the reaction... the HellGaak does not prevent the pse from becoming freebase but it prevents the freebase from separating... it becomes an emulsion that cannot be broken by any normal means...

so they developed a gaak to defeat snb but it also defeats the tetra-trap in the process!

(tetrachloroethylene truly and sincerely serves no useful purpose except as a novelty bottom puller... after 11 years of messing with the shit, I finally accept that its truly useless against anything in the pills now. Does not hurt a thing but it accomplishes nothing either. At least not within the context of anhydorus extractions as they are commonly run. I've tried every combination of solvents imaginable both with and without the stuff. Same results with or without it. Its useless but not harmful.)

simple solvent washes/boils are useless against this modern type of emulsifier...
they dont completely remove polysorbate 80, either... in fact, that shit is real hard to separate even with chromatography...

fortunately, the newer emulsifiers seem restricted to the US and the older methods should still work just fine in those places...
O:-)
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on November 27, 2014, 02:56:40 pm
WOW... GREAT STUFF PurpleCow...

I have to say, that description of emulsifiers seems to match the results that I read about spot on... Everything seemed to work perfectly, other than a cloudy emulsion layer that simply would not clear regardless of time of the reaction or amount of Li bronzed and expended...

The filtered and cleaned fuel post reaction was clear as expected, but the final product definitely contained contaminate that should not have been there...

Upon drying, the salt contained brown impurities that seemed to be more prevalent the longer it dried... the product could be cleaned up a bit by manually removing these brown impurities, crushing remaining product very fine, and doing a good acetone wash, but the product was still very low quality street dope at best.

Thanx for ALL of the research and info PurpleCow... I, for one, really appreciate it.

 
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on November 29, 2014, 04:39:57 am
Purp: That hits the honey jar. Thank you for the excellent information. DejaVu, (i loved that nintendo game btw, but not as good as Uninvited), thats the dirt messing up the up the bees wing beat. But on to better things than lost pollen. Time to hit the honeycomb gentleman.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on November 29, 2014, 09:05:43 pm
The vespiary?

The Zonez and Wetdreams are great sites. I have been trying to access The Collective but for some reason they are not taking new members.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on December 01, 2014, 06:24:34 pm
That's strange. Have seen some pretty decent shit come out of this method without cleaning first. Is this just imagination, or can it still be just thrown in the bottle?
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: PurpleCow on December 01, 2014, 08:10:25 pm
That's strange. Have seen some pretty decent shit come out of this method without cleaning first. Is this just imagination, or can it still be just thrown in the bottle?

Imo gup chucked with old feed stock will work. Gup chucked with feed stock from outside the US will work.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on December 01, 2014, 08:54:20 pm
That's strange. Have seen some pretty decent shit come out of this method without cleaning first. Is this just imagination, or can it still be just thrown in the bottle?

Imo gup chucked with old feed stock will work. Gup chucked with feed stock from outside the US will work.

Crazy as it has seemed to work with some brands (or so I hear) straight outta the box.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on December 10, 2014, 12:24:38 am
Ill spare myself a lot of time and explanation.

This tek WAS a good thing going. But Where im at now, it just took a shit. NOT WORKING! Produces product that has strange effects not noted before. Reaction not going chocolate milkshake color and staying. Instead it goes thick brown for a sec, then thick black/grey, almost like a clock reaction. Instead of clearing near the end, it goes cloudy with a tint of red/grey, and the noted "grey/white" layer that used to form on top of the nh3/naoh layer (which signaled true completion of bang as product) never forms. Product comes out fine, just isn't the same AT ALL. Its got a "tampered" with feel to it.

It may not be happened to anyone else yet, and if that  is the case, be prepared for a shit storm coming, because ITS HAPPENING HERE!

Calling all bees, some serious discussion needs to occur, NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS BEING PRODUCED AND WHY!

May Bee the beginning to a very evil Death By Gak twist. Lets get this shit figured out.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: sigilofbaphomet1567 on December 10, 2014, 12:29:44 am
Ive had the same problem with this method, worded at first but changed. I think its result of a "secret"ingrediant theyre putting in the pseudo now as an anti abuse measure.. I read about it somewhere
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on December 10, 2014, 12:57:43 am
Its no secret. Its called mislabeling the product and violating safety protocol standards. Sure clan chemistry in certain aspects may be a crime, but the irreversible effects of death is inhumane and goes beyond that. Not a good example to lead by.

Meth has had many negative effects on human life, but only seemingly outweighs the good, by using  commericial sandbagging tacts via the media. What about the good? Aids disappeared... people weren't sick.... people were happier. They were more productive. Heroin and cocaine wars died....

Either way, whatever is in these pills, might very well end up in everones food and water whenever the powers decide their solution to a compounded personal problem, has been tried and tested on the Target intended. But who cares right? The world goes on right?

In short/or long:

They can stop people from making meth,
they can make it hell for you to live,
But they will never be able to destroy something that they didn't create.

US
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: sigilofbaphomet1567 on December 10, 2014, 12:59:31 am
damn dude, I like the way you think, that's so fucking true
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on December 10, 2014, 12:59:32 am
Oh and for the record

Crystal meth doesn't kill people, Death by Inactive Gaks Kills people!
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on December 10, 2014, 03:09:47 am
Ill spare myself a lot of time and explanation.

This tek WAS a good thing going. But Where im at now, it just took a shit. NOT WORKING! Produces product that has strange effects not noted before. Reaction not going chocolate milkshake color and staying. Instead it goes thick brown for a sec, then thick black/grey, almost like a clock reaction. Instead of clearing near the end, it goes cloudy with a tint of red/grey, and the noted "grey/white" layer that used to form on top of the nh3/naoh layer (which signaled true completion of bang as product) never forms. Product comes out fine, just isn't the same AT ALL. Its got a "tampered" with feel to it.

It may not be happened to anyone else yet, and if that  is the case, be prepared for a shit storm coming, because ITS HAPPENING HERE!

Calling all bees, some serious discussion needs to occur, NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS BEING PRODUCED AND WHY!

May Bee the beginning to a very evil Death By Gak twist. Lets get this shit figured out.

Noticed this for sure. It's got a strange feel like you mentioned and also the "shadow people" always seem to come for an early visit. It seems to cause some crazy hallucinations of things moving around a lot too. I was thinking it was too much lithium, but maybe not since I am not the only one.

---
Also seems to work out a bit differently with different brands. Seen some bomb ass stuff then next time crazy fucking hallucinations with it and weird feelings and so on and so forth
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on December 10, 2014, 06:06:29 am
I'd like to point out that the SnB was one of the biggest spankings the bad guys have ever received in their "war on drugs"... That tek progressed tenfold and traveled the globe because of DETAILED CONTRIBUTION BY MANY on the old site...

If such contribution, and detailed reports on theory and experience was resurrected in a forum such as this...the speed at which their feeble efforts would be squashed would be astounding...

Some bees have alwayz beelived that EVERYONE has something to contribute, and the collective knowledge and experience of ALL builds the TRUE strength of the colony...

Heed the call...contribute...and it could be like Dejavu...

If you do not wish to contribute, then you are a PUSSY FAGGOT, and you should know that I fuck your little sister up her little brownhole... I'm just sayin...

-Me
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on December 10, 2014, 07:11:07 pm
Seeing that the notes that I found only referenced 2 recent reactions, and they were both done with generic wally red hots, I am interested in everyone's recent experience with different sources of feed stock...

Lets face it... If the write up that purp found on WD is accurate, it states that a certain pharm company created this Hell Gak as a deturant...but there are many different companies that produce the feed stock... Without intervention from the bad guys, I couldn't imagine that these various pharm companies go around sharing technologies...especially when it relates to unidentified, unlabled, secret ingredients that would be in direct violation of FDA regulations...

I'm not saying that the shit don't exist, I'm just saying that I would be very, VERY interested in reading some detailed reports about reactions run by SWIY with with different brands and variations of feed stock...

I know that the person that wrote the notes that I found wasn't intending to run any experiments in the foreseeable future, but I believe that this person is the type that will end up doing the research in the name of OUR cause, intellectual curiosity, and for all of those brothers and sisters that are REAL and paved the path of knowledge for him...

If you catz sincerely believe in your rights and freedoms, the best way you can excercise and retain them is to CONTRIBUTE to the cause that supports them... A collection of detailed ACCURATE reports from the collective can quickly and easily provide CONCLUSIVE answers to some important questions...

- Are ALL the common feed stocks showing these same tainted results?
- If not...which are and which are not?
- Are different geographical locations seeing different results from the feed stock?

Once these questions have been addressed conclusively. Bees can share experiences and results pertaining to pre reaction washes/extractions and post reaction workups...

I promise you, the last 2 batches that I read about were contaminated, but they WERE DOPE, and still better than some shit that has been purchased on the street over the years... I am not convinced that this shit can not be easily cleaned up before or after, but it takes much time for one....many minds and shared efforts and results are the only effective means to battle the bad guys.... If you will not contribute, then you deserve to snort/smoke/bang your Gaak poisons and I hope that it's a slow painful death...

If you care and want results...AND WANT TO WIN... Please CONTRIBUTE!!!
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: ChronicBoom! on December 11, 2014, 02:28:59 am
Next time I hear of it, I shall be sure there are details of the reaction. Sounds very worth it to have them on record.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on December 11, 2014, 02:34:08 am
Next time I hear of it, I shall be sure there are details of the reaction. Sounds very worth it to have them on record.

Right on Brother,  and the same goes for me...
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: AlHarringtonCHN on December 11, 2014, 06:08:03 pm
1. There is no "secrect ingredient. "  They absolutely must list all ingrediants but could "hide" the actual chemical name. There could be massive lawsuits if said completely missing ingrediant caused ANY issue to consumers.

2. There are several Hell gakks. At the least Polysorbate 80 and caranuba wax both carry over with polar and nonpolar separations. The Gakks also interfere with the reaction between AN and NaOH.

3.  Some now include Castor Oil.

4. Everything still works with yields slightly reduced if adjustments are made. Proper ratios, adjusted timings, and diligent workup is crucial.
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: AlHarringtonCHN on December 11, 2014, 06:14:35 pm
Ill spare myself a lot of time and explanation.

This tek WAS a good thing going. But Where im at now, it just took a shit. NOT WORKING! Produces product that has strange effects not noted before. Reaction not going chocolate milkshake color and staying. Instead it goes thick brown for a sec, then thick black/grey, almost like a clock reaction. Instead of clearing near the end, it goes cloudy with a tint of red/grey, and the noted "grey/white" layer that used to form on top of the nh3/naoh layer (which signaled true completion of bang as product) never forms. Product comes out fine, just isn't the same AT ALL. Its got a "tampered" with feel to it.

It may not be happened to anyone else yet, and if that  is the case, be prepared for a shit storm coming, because ITS HAPPENING HERE!

Calling all bees, some serious discussion needs to occur, NEED TO KNOW WHAT IS BEING PRODUCED AND WHY!

May Bee the beginning to a very evil Death By Gak twist. Lets get this shit figured out.

Noticed this for sure. It's got a strange feel like you mentioned and also the "shadow people" always seem to come for an early visit. It seems to cause some crazy hallucinations of things moving around a lot too. I was thinking it was too much lithium, but maybe not since I am not the only one.

---
Also seems to work out a bit differently with different brands. Seen some bomb ass stuff then next time crazy fucking hallucinations with it and weird feelings and so on and so forth


What method are you using for your extraction, H2O or HCl (g)?

2. How much Lithium are you using? More specific what are all your ratios? PSE/E, AN, NaOH, Li, NP and size of rv
Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: VenomStallone on December 11, 2014, 06:36:24 pm
Extraction: HCL gassing, after a water wash of fuel

1/4 cup AN
1/8 cup Naoh
2 li x9 strip

Rarely do i recharge, if i do it 1/8 an, and 1/16 naoh.

PSE 2.880g

NP is always 15 oz

Title: Re: Shake n Bake Recipie #100 - My Detailed Contribution by Li Part 1 of 2
Post by: DeJaVu on December 11, 2014, 08:38:15 pm
Thank you for the info Al...

- 2.88g pse - wally world generic reds
- Wash crushed pill mass in non-polar for 6 hrs then decant and dry
- 3/8 cup NaOH
- 3/16 cup an (NaOH and an increased from 1/4 cup and 1/8 cup respectively to make rxn more violent... Dissolves Li quicker, and seems to make product more potent)
- Rarely recharge
- 2 AA Li strips
- 500ml reaction bottle
- Approx 300-350ml non-polar (ether or Hexane or both)
- Pse (pill mass) added when Li = approx 75% bronzed
- Multiple water washes
- Liquid-Liquid water/muriatic extraction

If any additional info Would help, please let me know...

Would you be willing to elaborate on "Proper ratios", "adjusted timings", and "diligent workups" please?

Thanks again for contributing brother.

-me